Lake Glenville, north of Cashiers, North Carolina, has intrigued me every time I’ve driven past it, always on the way to someplace else. I really wanted to get on the water and I really wanted to explore someplace new. Seemed like a fine time to check out the highest lake east of the Mississippi.
I’m not a big fan of overly developed lakes. There’s got to be some attraction other than big water and big houses. One of the reasons I don’t bother with nearby Lake Robinson very much is because the best view is from the park at the dam. Around the shore it’s all built up. Same for sections of Lakes Keowee, Hartwell, and Murray. At least on the previous two there are a couple of places where you can get away from development.
That was the same impression I’d gotten from Glenville on my drives past – too many houses. Even so, I did a bit of research and found that there were some things that might attract my attention. First off, the original Glenville is now a ghost town under the waters of the lake. That’s always going to get my blood flowing. Secondly, there are several waterfalls that fall directly into the lake. Thirdly, it is the highest lake east of the Mississippi River, at an elevation of nearly 4000 feet above sea level. I uploaded several waypoints to my GPS and made my plans.
First, the obligatory history…
Western Carolina University’s Hunter Library undertook an oral history project, interviewing long-time residents of Jackson County. Marvin Fowler described life in the area.
The website with the Fowler interview also gives this history of the area. It pretty much sums it up, so I’m just going to quote it here.
Glenville was a town located in the Hamburg Township of Jackson County, North Carolina. Prior to the county’s incorporation in 1891, it was originally named Hamburgh and later renamed Hamburg, from which the township gets its name. The post office that serviced Hamburgh and Glenville was established in 1856, but settlement in the area began at least as early as 1820s. A surprising fact is at the time the town was incorporated in 1891, it was the largest town in Jackson County, this comes as surprising considering the town was so small.
In the form of schools the town had a private high school, the first in Jackson County. It was formed in 1886 and was just like Cullowhee High School which was founded in 1889, better known today as Western Carolina University. The school then transformed into a public institution in 1891. However, in 1926 a new Glenville School was built on a nearby hill above the town. This school would serve grades 1-11 and served as the main high school for that part of the county until 1975. In 1975, the Blue Ridge School opened, meaning the consolidation of Cashiers Elementary and the Glenville School. When the lake was filled in the 1940s, the waters were brought to the edge of the campus, making the school lakeside. It was the pride of the community but deteriorated after being abandoned and was demolished around 2000 to make way for lakeside homes.
Lost but Not Forgotten: Mapping Jackson County’s Lost Communities – Cashiers and Glenville
The Glenville Dam holds back the waters of the Tuckaseegee River. Construction on what was then known as “Thorpe Reservoir” began in 1940 and was completed in 1942. The project was sponsored by ALCOA to produce electric for production of aluminum for the war effort. Much of the town of Glenville was displaced and moved to higher ground.
Glenville is a two-hour drive from Greenville, so I headed out early on a Tuesday morning. I wasn’t sure how crowded the lake got, so I wanted to avoid weekend traffic. As I drove up and over the mountains mist hung over the river valleys and coves along the way. I was hoping there might still be some fog when I arrived at the lake.
The Tuckaseegee is across the continental divide, so it flows north into the Tennessee-Mississippi Rivers watershed. That means that the dam is on the north end. Powerhouse Landing was my target launch point, and it is on the north end near the dam. I was amazed at the amount of traffic in the Lake Glenville area. The roads on the north and south ends of the lake had vehicles backed up to turn onto the main highway. I missed the turn to Powerhouse at first, then had a hard time turning around to come back because of the traffic.
Fortunately there was plenty of parking and not much activity at the landing itself. This is a small area with one boat ramp. I was able to park right next to the ramp and offload my gear without even having to back down the ramp.
There were a few houses around the cove, but overall it was a lovely setting. The water was cool and refreshing when I set out.
On the point across from Powerhouse Landing is Ralph J. Andrews Park. This looks like it might be another good lake access point. The park has camping and I saw several tents along the banks.
My first target was down one of the side coves of the lake. The deep cove leading back to Mill Creek Falls is lined with spectacular homes. A couple of them were perched atop rock formations leading right down to the lake.
When I got to the falls I was in for a surprise. There was a pontoon boat moored right in front of them, and it seemed that was its permanent home. When I got closer I saw that there were houses right on top of the falls. The falls themselves were lovely, but the houses were an unwelcome intrusion. Of course, there were No Trespassing signs on either side of the falls.
I can understand why someone would want a home in such a lovely spot, but I don’t understand how the stewards of the lake could allow such selfishness. I guess money talks.
I paddled back out of the cove and headed toward my next target, hidden falls. Along the way I spotted a bald eagle nesting above a beautifully manicured lawn. I didn’t have a camera with a long lens to get a good shot.
The problem with such beautifully manicured lawns is that they require constant upkeep. That means blowers, lawn mowers, etc., etc. that disrupt the peaceful nature of the lake. Add to that the constant sounds of construction on new homes and you get a far cry from paradise.
Hidden Falls lived up to their name. The falls were obscured by trees and limbs. I couldn’t get a decent shot of the entire falls, but I did my best.
Though “hidden”, these falls were soon to suffer the same fate as Mill Creek. There was massive land clearing taking place right above the falls to the left. Another huge home was going in.
Norton Falls was about a mile down another cove. It would be the last falls I visited on this trip. Clouds were starting to build and I didn’t want to get caught out on an unfamiliar lake in bad weather.
Norton Falls is named for a family of early settlers in the area. As with the other two falls, there were structures all around the area. There was a water wheel, but I’m pretty sure it was more decorative than functional or historic.
I made my way back on a fairly straight track. I was a bit tired of luxury obscuring natural beauty. When I got back to the ramp I was in for another surprise. The truck park next to me apparently picked up and moved my kayak trailer. OK. I appreciate moving it so that you don’t hit it, but please move it back and don’t park so close. I was a bit ticked off. That aggravation intensified as a guy with two jet skis started backing down the ramp while I still had my boat and gear there. Fortunately, he was a good backer and the ramp was wide enough, but it still made me nervous.
I got my trailer straightened, the boat loaded, and managed to back out without hitting anything or running off the road.
Despite my feelings about the falls and noise, it had been a good paddling trip and I’m glad I traveled up to Lake Glenville. I paddled nearly 9 miles and saw three waterfalls. That’s never a bad thing.
I had the GoPro running, so there is a time-lapse.